Material

Weave

Cloth drawn the way cloth is made. Each design is a real weave draft — warp down, weft across, and a rule deciding which is on top at every crossing. Plain is one over one and what you get by doubling it: hopsack, panama, oxford. Twill moves the crossing along by one each row, which is where the diagonal comes from, and steepening it gives gabardine. Fancy is everything that changes the yarn rather than the draft: the long floats of satin, the loops of bouclé, the heavy weft of an ottoman, the raised cell of a piqué. Scale it down and it is a texture; scale it up and you can count the threads.

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