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Leather is read by its relief rather than its colour: a grain is a field of small domes, each lit on top and shadowed beneath, and what tells you which hide you are looking at is how those domes are sized and packed. Grain is the hide as it comes — pebble, full grain, nappa, buffalo. Exotic is the reptile and the bird, where the packing becomes a plate or a quill. Worked is what the tannery and the bench did to it afterwards: the pull of a saddle hide, a stitched seam, a punched brogue, a napped suede.

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